Merry Christmas!

Where can one go after Christmas Eve at King's College? I mean, how much better can it get? Alot! Tired and content after Cambridge, we slept in for once back at our friends, Michael and Todd's flat. Although we were told that Christmas would be quiet and that they didn't do much for the season (to which we said, "Fine!"), the flat was decked out for the holiday. Now it is hard to out-do the already gorgeous Georgian interior at their place but everything was warm, cozy, and festive.

The centerpiece of Christmas day was the feast that Michael worked hard to make perfect! The table was laid out and ready for the onslaught of food that was to come!

While in Paris in November, I stumbled on a small wine shop that sold a specialty champagne which I thought would be nice as a start to the meal. It was really delicious! If only we could get some here but they have such a limited production there is just no way.

Once the food started coming out, it just kept coming. We had brie and cranberries in phyllo pastry parcels. There was a seafood terrine with a french mayonnaise and toasts. The main course is shown in this picture! There were two (!) whole beef en croute from Fortnum and Mason, roasties, brussell sprouts, carrots, and french green beans. I made a gravy which was yummy as well. Though we postponed eating them until Boxing Day, I should tell you there was also a whole game pie and a ham to go along with this! Then came Michael's Christmas pudding, flaming with brandy, and served with a brandy sauce.

At this point, we were all stuffed! To keep from passing out, Jim, Todd, and I took a walk around the neighborhood as the sun was going down. We wandered to Primrose Hill, which Jim had never been to, and we joined the throngs of others from the neighborhood who had the same idea. From Primrose Hill, we had a grand view of the whole of London and watched the lights come on across the city as the sun went down behind us.

When we got back, though we hardly needed it, we ate again. I had Jim bring over the last quart of last year's mincemeat and made my mince tarts for everyone. They have heard about this mincemeat for years and they finally got to taste it. There were also delightful cheeses and a delicious port to wash it all down with. Ah Christmas....

This was among the most amazing Christmas holidays coming at the end of four of the most unusual and marvelous months of my life at Harlaxton. We left England to head for home the day after Boxing Day. It all seemed (and still does to some extent) surreal to be back in the United States. I loved my time in England. It wasn't always easy and things at Harlaxton weren't always pleasant. But it was four months in Lincolnshire...wandering the Burghley Horse Trials, climbing the steep hill of Lincoln, walking across the countryside, hanging out with members of the Belvoir Hunt, finding food at the Grantham Saturday Market, going to Orkney, France, Italy...eating at Harry's Place in Great Gonerby, Chequers in Woolsthrope, the Market in Camden...so many experiences...so much to remember. I hope you have enjoyed following my adventures here. I have enjoyed sharing my memories with you.

With warm regard,

WAM

Christmas Eve at King's

It seems like another world now but Jim and I spent Christmas Eve in Cambridge awaiting the chance to join the Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at King's College. We have listened to this service for nearly sixteen years when it has been broadcast live on the Indianapolis public radio station at 10 am on Christmas Eve. Despite the challenge of the snow, the chilly and damp weather, the need to be up very early to get to King's Cross for the train, and the prospect of standing for hours on end, we were committed to being there to be a part of the congregation at King's this year.

So, shortly before 6 am, we launched out onto the dark streets of Belsize Park in London, armed with smoked salmon sandwiches, Tyrrell's potato chips, and Oyster cards heading for the Chalk Farm tube heading to King's Cross for the 7:15 am train to Cambridge.

The train got in promptly just past 8 am and we bundled into a cab and headed to King's. It was cold and damp, this being England and there having been snow on and off all week. The snow of course made everything look picture perfect and added to the holiday spirit in the air. We marched through the gate and right to the end of the queue. We asked the porters if they knew how many people had already were there and they guessed close to 400 (of the 650 total that are allowed in). You can see the start of the queue in the second picture. There is a man, a former fellow of the College, who got there almost two days ahead to be the first in line. Six or seven others spent the night in line...all to be part of the first 150 people who can then sit in the quire of the Chapel. Since we were nowhere near the front, we were just happy to be there and even happier to discover everyone had access to the College Commons where there was coffee, tea, hot chocholate, food, and most importantly...toilets!

And so the time passed. They would not be letting people into the Chapel until 1:30 so we have a little over 5 hours in line. I thought the first 45 minutes went the slowest...it was chilly, we hadn't met those around us, and we didn't know how things would play out. But then as we did begin conversations with the delightful people around us in the queue, the time began to pass quickly. I wandered down toward the river for a little exercise and was able to take this lovely picture! This is England! What you can't see is the group of Japanese tourists who were punting down the Cam! It was a bit cold for that!

Back in line, we shared stories, food, Christmas traditions, and jokes with those around us. The family in line ahead of us were down to join their daughter who was working on a nursing degree at Cambridge. The man ahead of them had been coming to King's for this service since 1969! Now that's commitment! He and I concurred that the 2008 service was awful...too much modern music, too dissonant...apparently many people who heard or were at the service had complained so he was interested to see what they would do this year. The guys behind us just moved to Cambridge and were now living in a house about a ten minute walk from Kings (They also had a house in Yorkshire...as you do)! Lucky men!

There was lots of activity around us too. The choristers came marching by at one point in their top hats, scarves, and robes.

Around noon, the adult members of the choir showed up. That's them in the picture below. They all had Santa-style hats or in one case a hat with reindeer antlers. It was wonderful. They were wandering up and down the queue singing all the old campy Christmas songs, like Santa Claus is Coming to Town, Rudolph, and many others. What a treat to hear them doing these types of songs when we kneww they would be taking us to the heights of Christmas ecstasy with the traditional religious carols in just a few more hours.

Before we knew it, it was 1:30 pm and the line was marching toward to the Chapel. We had amazing seats. We had only a partial view into the main part of the chapel but who cares! It was King's College Chapel! We stood for the Mayor and other officials as they entered in procession. Then came the choir led by the crucifer and tapers and the service got underway at 3 pm. There we were...knowing many of our friends were listening to the service back home. We were together for Christmas through that service across the miles. The service was everything one could every want. Apparently responding to the public outcry, we were given an ultra-traditional service with all the favorite carols. Even the unusual and contemporary pieces fit in with the others. There was nothing that sounded out of place...it was a choral Christmas banquet and we were there for it!

This was a Christmas experience of a lifetime and was one of the centerpieces of this year's Christmas season. So while we are now home and getting ready for the next big liturgical season of Lent, I look back and think wow...I was there.